steampunk


Way back in January, I blogged about my newest Etsy Team, the Etsy Bead Embroidery Guild.  You can read about them here.

We have challenges called “bead fests” and “mini bead fests.” The current Bead Fest is the STEAMPUNK BEAD FEST.  I got my entry done early and blogged about it here.

We had 14 entries this Bead Fest! Mine is in the second row – second from the right.  This fest had some truly amazing work by our members! Listing left to right:
Bead Fest:Steampunk
Row 1
Five Minutes to Midnight by EsmerldasStudio
Row 2
Captain Nemo’s Garden – by KraftKonfessions
Row 3
Metropolis by LuxVivensFashion

Here is another photo of the piece that I did…

The upcoming Bead Fest is “Kaleidescope” and the Mini Bead Fest is “Emerald.”  Thus far, I’ve taken part in all of the ones that have come my way, although the next two fall durig particularly busy times for me so i don’t think I’ll be able to do anything for them.

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Another challenge piece FINISHED!

Yesterday, I talked about my newest team, the Etsy Bead Embroidery Guild.  They have regular themed challenges (which they call “Bead Fests”) and this most recent challenge was “Steampunk.”  The deadline isn’t until the 31st, but I have a lot to do this month, so wanted (and was inspired) to get it done early.
———-
Steampunk is an interesting design melding of Victorian romanticism and modern technology.  Often, this style uses antique style keys, locks, hearts and cogs.  It melds them with ruffles, lace and silks.  There are a few really great books on the market just now that discuss Steampunk style; in fashion it is growing as a mainstream “look.”

You may want to take a look at Diane Hyde’s website “Beadpunk” for inspirational items. http://www.beadpunk.net

Good examples of steampunk style are found in the movies Hellboy II, Sherlock Holmes, League of Extraordimary Gentlemen and Wild Wild West.

From Wikipedia:
Steampunk is a sub-genre of science fiction that typically features steam-powered machinery, especially in a setting inspired by industrialized Western civilization during the 19th century. Therefore, steampunk works are often set in an alternate history of the 19th century’s British Victorian era or American “Wild West”, in a post-apocalyptic future during which steam power has regained mainstream use, or in a fantasy world that similarly employs steam power. Such technology may include fictional machines like those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne, or the modern authors Philip Pullman.

Steampunk may also, though not necessarily, incorporate additional elements from the genres of fantasy, horror, historical fiction, alternate history, or other branches of speculative fiction, making it often a hybrid genre.

You can read more about it here  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steampunk
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The design started with a couple of pieces I purchased from Diane Hyde years ago at Bead & Button.  I’ve been hoarding them just waiting for the right piece to put them into.  You can actually purchase them on her website (link is above).

To this, I added a stamped art nouveau face cabochon I bought from her, but can’t find on her website.  I had three Chinese crystal HUGE (maybe 25mm) rivolis that I got from Charlene (the owner of Caravan Beads in Chicago), some elk hide, some fluffy fiber fringe and a spherical watch pendant.  I added in a bunch of Swarovski pearls, some pink quartz I got in a bead swap (check out the bead swaps at http://www.beadswap-usa.com/index.php ) and started my bead embroidery work!

I always work from the center outward, so glued down the floral stampings and face cabochon first and captured them in the beadwork.  For this particular piece, I wanted to learn how to do some diagonal peyote stitch leaves and found the free instructions here!
http://beadwork.about.com/od/otherbeadedjewelry/ss/Peyote_Stitched_Russian_Leaves_9.htm

I don’t think I actually purchased anything for this piece except for the copper tube clasps.  Everything was “in stash.”

You can view more about this piece on my Etsy.  http://hannahrachel.etsy.com


Silk and Chain Steampunk Necklace

HAPPY NEW YEAR! I might have posted this already, but I just can’t seem to find it, so my apologies if it has already gone up on this blog… but here it is again.
Before you get to work, please take the time to read the tutorial thoroughly.
It’s a bit like a complicated recipe; you want to have all of your ingredients ready before you start!  This tutorial is intended for intermediate  beadweavers; you should really know even count peyote stitch and be able to read a peyote graph.  If you don’t know peyote stitch, I have a tutorial available on my website and my etsy page: it is called the Japanese Screen Bracelet.
This document is protected by copyright, and is intended for the sole use of the person who has purchased it. Please do not copy this tutorial, or distribute it in any manner. (This does not include printing for your own personal use.)
The design for this piece is based off of ancient techniques.  The design itself, however, is mine.  You may not reproduce this design for sale without my written permission.  In addition, this design may not be entered in any competitions without given me design credits and without written permission.  Thank you.
Most importantly, please have fun! Feel free to contact me with any and all questions regarding the information below, and for sources for any of the materials mentioned. I’ll do my best to help you track down whatever you’ll need!

Materials:
* Centerpiece – I used one of the steampunk watches that we bulk ordered from China, but you could use a lampwork pendant/bead!
*1/4″ silk cording
*Cord Caps
*Wire – I used 22g since that’s what I had hanging around
*Chain (I have three varieties here). My longest piece was TWICE as long as the cord and just happened to come attached to that watch.
*Big jump rings (I think these guys are 10mm)
*Clasp
*Disk Beads
*Lampwork Spacer Beads
*Size 8/0 or size 6/0 seed beads
*Beading Thread (I recommend Fireline)
*Clear Tape
*Glue – I recommend .527 watch glue or “Zap-a-Gap.” Don’t use superglue since it puts a white film on glass beads that looks bad.
*Optional – Steampunk Cog Bead things (I used two – they were made by Tim Holtz)
*Optional – if you’re using a lampwork centerpiece: headpin and matching beadies
*Optional – matching 6mm Swarovski crystal
*Wireworking Tools – flat nosed pliers, round nosed pliers and wire cutters

The Centerpiece

If you have purchased one of the watches and want to use it as the centerpiece, you don’t have to do anything to it besides take it off the chain. However, if you want to use a focal bead, you’ll need to turn it into a drop first.

Slip a bead (shown is a Swarovski, but you’ll be using your focal) onto a head pin, and using round nosed or needle nosed pliers to bend the head pin over. If your lampwork bead hole is too big for the little “head” on that head pin, block it up with some smaller beads, one above and one below your bead. See the little space between the headpin and the 90-degree bend? You want this, but you only want a little bit of room there (no more than 1/16”).

Tip: In the photo I’m uploading, that’s a towel behind the Swarovski, but it looks like a shag rug, so turn on some disco now to complete the rest of this project.

Next, hold the bent part of the head pin with round nosed pliers, and with your fingers bend the rest of the head pin around the nose of the pliers to form a loop.

Insert the nose of your round pliers back through the loop. Hold the loop of the head pin over the nose of the pliers while using bent/flat/needle nosed pliers to wrap the head pin around itself. This will secure your loop so it cannot open.

If you are using the watch, you might want to add some heavier beads at the bottom of the tassle chains. I’ve noticed the weight isn’t well distributed otherwise. I also added some more chain into the tassle, because I LOVE fringe.

The Silk Cord

Our own Jamn makes silk cording, but its not as thick as the stuff I used. You could bundle some of hers together though, and it would add a layer of texture that would be really beautiful.
http://Jamnglass.etsy.com
Here’s a photo I randomly ripped off her etsy site, just to tempt you. Hopefully she won’t mind…

I found some of the thicker stuff also on Etsy at
http://TandZSupplies.etsy.com
but here’s the thing… I’ve never ordered from this company and so as a result can’t vouch personally for her.
She’s got good feedback, though.

I happened to have a piece from a million years ago, made from a company called embeads. I looked them up online and can’t find their website, though. I’d also like to pretend that I was all trendy in using orange since its the Pantone Color of 2012. Actually, the Pantone Color is “tangerine” and I just had this cord…

The Disks

I refuse to take responsibility for my boro disk-making obession, so I’ll just go ahead and blame someone else for it (you know who you are, up there in Canada)! You can make your disks out of either soft glass or boro. I just like the colors of the boro. If you want some, I’ve got plenty to spare, just let me know how many and the approximate color. They’re super cheap, too. I used… uh… 8 of them. They only sort-of matched.

Anyhow, here’s a bunch of eye candy I had hanging around on my computer…

If you do want to try and make your own, here are two videos I dug up on youtube. They use soft glass, but you could use boro instead. As a matter of fact, I think its easier in boro. You do want to pop them into a kiln, though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xl5s3FLmdaM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtmR8Ib5z2s

Ready to put this thing all together?

Wrap your longest chain around the silk cording. Wrap it pretty tightly, and try to keep the wraps even.

Wrap scotch tape tightly around the ends. This will help to keep your chain nice and even with the silk cording and will also help keep the silk cording from fraying. Cut the tape directly in half so that when you add your bead cap the tape doesn’t stick out from underneath that cap. Nip off the extra chain with wire cutters.

Wrap a piece of your wire around the chain and taped edge. Do it really really REALLY tightly. Add a bunch of glue right at the top of the tape. This will help keep your silk from fraying also, and acts as extra insurance in case your wire wrap wasn’t tight enough. Run the wire up through the bead/cord cap. I like adding a matching bead up here to make the back look as nice as the front. Wirewrap your clasp onto the piece.

Okay! Time to embellish the front!

Add a large jumpring at the center front. I like to catch the chain here, too, just to make sure that the wrap stays consistent. Attach your focal bead/watch to the jump ring.

I put a piece of thin chain through each of 4 disks and suspended them from jump rings around the cord/chain.

I also added two other short pieces of chain between the jump rings. You know, since I had that extra chain and all. The three chains I used in this piece did NOT match. This was part of the fun of it.

Finally, I stacked glass disks, spacer beads, cogs, Swarovski crystal and some 8/0 seed beads and sewed them onto the silk cording. My cogs were two different metals and none of the beads matched. I was okay with this!
Here’s a close-up on one of those stacks.

Too busy for you? Here’s a simpler version…

Now, lets see your version!
Like these tips, articles and tutorials?
Buy me a cup of coffee!
 

This is available as a free pattern on my website in the links and articles section! Eva made it into a colorway in her Artisan Colorway Series on Facebook. You should see the whole set – she’s on a roll and they all look fantastic.

My thanks Eva!

If you would like to see her unbelievably beautiful beadwork (really, you won’t believe it), then head on over to her website.
http://keiserdesigns.com/

If you would like to see the whole colorways eries, head on over to her blog.
http://keiserdesigns.blogspot.com/search/label/Colorway

 
STEAMPUNK/GYPSY
MULTIMEDIA CUFF BRACELETS ON ETSY!

Alrighty – these are just silly and fun to make. They have rough frayed edges, are almost completely made of thai silk with some other stuff thrown in just for good measure.

http://hannahrachel.etsy.com

Silk and Chain Steampunk Necklace

Materials:
Centerpiece – I used one of the steampunk watches that we bulk ordered from China, but you could use a lampwork pendant/bead!
1/4″ silk cording
Cord Caps
Wire – I used 22g since that’s what I had hanging around
Chain (I have three varieties here). My longest piece was TWICE as long as the cord and just happened to come attached to that watch.
Big jump rings (I think these guys are 10mm)
Clasp
Disk Beads
Lampwork Spacer Beads
Size 8/0 or size 6/0 seed beads
Beading Thread (I recommend Fireline)
Clear Tape
Glue – I recommend .527 watch glue or “Zap-a-Gap.” Don’t use superglue since it puts a white film on glass beads that looks bad.
Optional – Steampunk Cog Bead things (I used two – they were made by Tim Holtz)
Optional – if you’re using a lampwork centerpiece: headpin and matching beadies
Optional – matching 6mm Swarovski crystal
Wireworking Tools – flat nosed pliers, round nosed pliers and wire cutters

The Centerpiece

If you have purchased one of the watches and want to use it as the centerpiece, you don’t have to do anything to it besides take it off the chain. However, if you want to use a focal bead, you’ll need to turn it into a drop first.

Slip a bead (shown is a Swarovski, but you’ll be using your focal) onto a head pin, and using round nosed or needle nosed pliers to bend the head pin over. If your lampwork bead hole is too big for the little “head” on that head pin, block it up with some smaller beads, one above and one below your bead. See the little space between the headpin and the 90-degree bend? You want this, but you only want a little bit of room there (no more than 1/16”).

Tip: In the photo I’m uploading, that’s a towel behind the Swarovski, but it looks like a shag rug, so turn on some disco now to complete the rest of this project.

 
Next, hold the bent part of the head pin with round nosed pliers, and with your fingers bend the rest of the head pin around the nose of the pliers to form a loop.

Insert the nose of your round pliers back through the loop. Hold the loop of the head pin over the nose of the pliers while using bent/flat/needle nosed pliers to wrap the head pin around itself. This will secure your loop so it cannot open.

If you are using the watch, you might want to add some heavier beads at the bottom of the tassle chains. I’ve noticed the weight isn’t well distributed otherwise. I also added some more chain into the tassle, because I LOVE fringe.

 
The Silk Cord

Our own Jamn makes silk cording, but its not as thick as the stuff I used. You could bundle some of hers together though, and it would add a layer of texture that would be really beautiful.
http://Jamnglass.etsy.com
Here’s a photo I randomly ripped off her etsy site, just to tempt you. Hopefully she won’t mind…

 
I found some of the thicker stuff also on Etsy at
http://TandZSupplies.etsy.com
but here’s the thing… I’ve never ordered from this company and so as a result can’t vouch personally for her.
She’s got good feedback, though.

I happened to have a piece from a million years ago, made from a company called embeads. I looked them up online and can’t find their website, though. I’d also like to pretend that I was all trendy in using orange since its the Pantone Color of 2012. Actually, the Pantone Color is “tangerine” and I just had this cord…

The DisksI refuse to take responsibility for my boro disk-making obession, so I’ll just go ahead and blame someone else for it (you know who you are, up there in Canada)! You can make your disks out of either soft glass or boro. I just like the colors of the boro. If you want some, I’ve got plenty to spare, just let me know how many and the approximate color. They’re super cheap, too. I used… uh… 8 of them. They only sort-of matched.Anyhow, here’s a bunch of eye candy I had hanging around on my computer…
If you do want to try and make your own, here are two videos I dug up on youtube. They use soft glass, but you could use boro instead. As a matter of fact, I think its easier in boro. You do want to pop them into a kiln, though.

Ready to put this thing all together?

Wrap your longest chain around the silk cording. Wrap it pretty tightly, and try to keep the wraps even.

Wrap scotch tape tightly around the ends. This will help to keep your chain nice and even with the silk cording and will also help keep the silk cording from fraying. Cut the tape directly in half so that when you add your bead cap the tape doesn’t stick out from underneath that cap. Nip off the extra chain with wire cutters.

Wrap a piece of your wire around the chain and taped edge. Do it really really REALLY tightly. Add a bunch of glue right at the top of the tape. This will help keep your silk from fraying also, and acts as extra insurance in case your wire wrap wasn’t tight enough. Run the wire up through the bead/cord cap. I like adding a matching bead up here to make the back look as nice as the front. Wirewrap your clasp onto the piece.

 
Okay! Time to embellish the front!

Add a large jumpring at the center front. I like to catch the chain here, too, just to make sure that the wrap stays consistent. Attach your focal bead/watch to the jump ring.

I put a piece of thin chain through each of 4 disks and suspended them from jump rings around the cord/chain.

 
 
 
I also added two other short pieces of chain between the jump rings. You know, since I had that extra chain and all. The three chains I used in this piece did NOT match. This was part of the fun of it.

Finally, I stacked glass disks, spacer beads, cogs, Swarovski crystal and some 8/0 seed beads and sewed them onto the silk cording. My cogs were two different metals and none of the beads matched. I was okay with this!
Here’s a close-up on one of those stacks.

Too busy for you? Here’s a simpler version…

 Now, lets see your version!
Or… you can just buy mine!
The more complex orange one:
And the less complex one: