free beading tutorial


TASSEL PENDANT NECKLACE

I could have sworn I posted these, but I can’t seem to find them, so I apologize if this is a repost of something I gave you earlier.  Nevertheless, its a free pattern/tutorial, so have fun!


Fringes, tassels, feathers and chain are all trendy for winter 2012 and early 2013. So, I decided to combine them in this tassel necklace.

Materials
* Cone Shaped Bead Cap
-You could get a premade silver one, but I decided to make my own.
-Details below about making your own.
-As for the premade ones, I like the Bali sterling.
* Premade Beaded Fringe (or, you could bead your own)
– I already had some of this so decided not to make my own.
-You can get it in the upholstery section of your local fabric store.
-I used 3”
* Chain
-Small pieces for the tassel and a longer piece to hang your tassel on!
* Feathers (I used about 7)
* A bead
-I used a handmade spacer bead.
* Wire – 20 gauge or thicker.
* Optional: Bail
* Optional: Bobbin Bead
* Needle
* Thread
* Wireworking Tools – round nosed pliers, flat nosed pliers, wire cutters
* Glue – I like .527 watch glue.

—————–
MAKING YOUR OWN BEAD CAP

About a million years ago I picked up these ½” mandrels from ABR Imagery.
http://www.dichroicimagery.com/produ…ducts_id=72443

Beforehand, I had a couple I had purchased from Arrow Springs, but they were nicked at a class by one of our own LE members! Anyhow, I guess what I’m saying is to both mark your tools when at class and also you can pick them up from many different suppliers.

If you decided to make your own tassel cap, then the one thing I have found about these mandrels is that you need to make sure they are really well-dipped in bead separator and also you work pretty hot. The width of the mandrel makes it difficult to heat up and glass just has trouble sticking to it. Keep at it! Mine is totally uneven.

I used 96COE “Raku” glass for my tassel cap.

———————

ASSEMBLING YOUR TASSEL

Once you get that bead cap off your mandrel, the rest of the project is pretty easy. The whole getting the bead cap off thing didn’t work after a few days soaking. It also didn’t work after being stuck in the freezer. Having a temper tantrum at it seemed to work, but there’s no good reason why it should respond to that when nothing else worked. I wonder if temper tantrums would work on my dog…

Make a loop on one side of the wire.

Cut a 3” piece of the beaded fringe, roll it up around the wire and tack it into place with needle and thread.

Sew the feathers in place, evenly spaced around the tassel.

Sew the chain in place, evenly spaced around the tassel.

That totally looks like something you’d go fly fishing with, doesn’t it?
With the remaining thread, wrap around the top of the tassel and stitch the whole thing together tightly. Add some glue just for extra insurance, but make sure that the glue doesn’t get everywhere. It needs to be hidden by the cap.

Slide the cap over your tassel. Add the spacer bead and make a loop at the top. If you know how to do a wirewrap, then do it. It’ll add extra insurance.
If you don’t know how to wirewrap, its actually part of my free tutorial here:
http://lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212857
I added a bail since I had one lying around and it just makes it look more professional. Remember, if you are adding a bail AND doing a wirewrap, you click the bail in after you create the loop and before you wrap the wire around!

Hang your tassel on your chain and wear!
I had a matching bobbin bead, so of course I added it because more is sometimes…more.
Actually, the first photo is better.

You’re so IN, girl!

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I can’t seem to find these, so I’m reposing them.  I apologize if they are repeats!

The World’s Easiest Bling Bracelet – Swarovski Crystals and Lampwork.
Here’s another super trendy bracelet that’s actually really easy to make.Materials:
* 7″ Swarovski chain – mine is on a blue ultrasuede base, but you can get it from Etsy without a base.

Expect to pay about $6/foot.
Here’s a link to a store with stuff that would work just dandy.
http://www.etsy.com/listing/95899190…inestone-chain

* Leather Lacing – about 18″

*Lacing Thread – you can use whatever you’ve got.
I have some black hemp here that would work, but I’ve decided to use C-lon Macrame thread since I have some pretty colors.
As a side note, I get my C-lon from here:
http://www.caravanbeads.net/ProdList.asp?scat=76

* Glue – I suggest .527 watch glue or “Zap-a-Gap.”

* Bead or Button for closure – of course I used a boro bead…

———————————-

Fold your leather lacing in half. This is going to be the button loop, so make sure it fits over whatever you’ve picked as a closure.
Lay your lacing along the same line as the leather. See which side I have the cut end on? I’ll be wrapping the loop shank over the top of this to conceal it.
You can use a spot of glue to keep it all in place.

Wrap the lacing tightly around the leather to make the loop shank. I suggest at least 1/4″.
Keep it together at the end with a half-hitch knot. You can use another spot of glue if you’d like.

Lay the swarovski chain over the lacing. You can use a spot of glue to keep it in place if you’d like, but its going to be the wraps that really keep it all together.

Wrap tightly between each swarovski stone.

You could continue a full length of the bracelet, or you could decide you want more lampwork bling. I cut my Swarovski into separate pieces and added some boro bead goodness.

At the end, make a shank in the same way you did at the beginning. If you’d like to hide your cut lacing thread end, you can thread it on a needle and sew it back in through the loop.
Use a spot of glue to hold everything in place, if you’d like.

String on your bead or button and knot to hold it together. Again, you can use a spot of glue if you’d like.

Cut all raw edges. Wait for your glue to dry.

Wear and enjoy!

Other options:
Here is a bracelet on Etsy by westprince done without the lampwork beads.

Here is a bracelet done exactly the same way, only using ball chain. This is on Etsy by sukoshishop.


Silk and Chain Steampunk Necklace

HAPPY NEW YEAR! I might have posted this already, but I just can’t seem to find it, so my apologies if it has already gone up on this blog… but here it is again.
Before you get to work, please take the time to read the tutorial thoroughly.
It’s a bit like a complicated recipe; you want to have all of your ingredients ready before you start!  This tutorial is intended for intermediate  beadweavers; you should really know even count peyote stitch and be able to read a peyote graph.  If you don’t know peyote stitch, I have a tutorial available on my website and my etsy page: it is called the Japanese Screen Bracelet.
This document is protected by copyright, and is intended for the sole use of the person who has purchased it. Please do not copy this tutorial, or distribute it in any manner. (This does not include printing for your own personal use.)
The design for this piece is based off of ancient techniques.  The design itself, however, is mine.  You may not reproduce this design for sale without my written permission.  In addition, this design may not be entered in any competitions without given me design credits and without written permission.  Thank you.
Most importantly, please have fun! Feel free to contact me with any and all questions regarding the information below, and for sources for any of the materials mentioned. I’ll do my best to help you track down whatever you’ll need!

Materials:
* Centerpiece – I used one of the steampunk watches that we bulk ordered from China, but you could use a lampwork pendant/bead!
*1/4″ silk cording
*Cord Caps
*Wire – I used 22g since that’s what I had hanging around
*Chain (I have three varieties here). My longest piece was TWICE as long as the cord and just happened to come attached to that watch.
*Big jump rings (I think these guys are 10mm)
*Clasp
*Disk Beads
*Lampwork Spacer Beads
*Size 8/0 or size 6/0 seed beads
*Beading Thread (I recommend Fireline)
*Clear Tape
*Glue – I recommend .527 watch glue or “Zap-a-Gap.” Don’t use superglue since it puts a white film on glass beads that looks bad.
*Optional – Steampunk Cog Bead things (I used two – they were made by Tim Holtz)
*Optional – if you’re using a lampwork centerpiece: headpin and matching beadies
*Optional – matching 6mm Swarovski crystal
*Wireworking Tools – flat nosed pliers, round nosed pliers and wire cutters

The Centerpiece

If you have purchased one of the watches and want to use it as the centerpiece, you don’t have to do anything to it besides take it off the chain. However, if you want to use a focal bead, you’ll need to turn it into a drop first.

Slip a bead (shown is a Swarovski, but you’ll be using your focal) onto a head pin, and using round nosed or needle nosed pliers to bend the head pin over. If your lampwork bead hole is too big for the little “head” on that head pin, block it up with some smaller beads, one above and one below your bead. See the little space between the headpin and the 90-degree bend? You want this, but you only want a little bit of room there (no more than 1/16”).

Tip: In the photo I’m uploading, that’s a towel behind the Swarovski, but it looks like a shag rug, so turn on some disco now to complete the rest of this project.

Next, hold the bent part of the head pin with round nosed pliers, and with your fingers bend the rest of the head pin around the nose of the pliers to form a loop.

Insert the nose of your round pliers back through the loop. Hold the loop of the head pin over the nose of the pliers while using bent/flat/needle nosed pliers to wrap the head pin around itself. This will secure your loop so it cannot open.

If you are using the watch, you might want to add some heavier beads at the bottom of the tassle chains. I’ve noticed the weight isn’t well distributed otherwise. I also added some more chain into the tassle, because I LOVE fringe.

The Silk Cord

Our own Jamn makes silk cording, but its not as thick as the stuff I used. You could bundle some of hers together though, and it would add a layer of texture that would be really beautiful.
http://Jamnglass.etsy.com
Here’s a photo I randomly ripped off her etsy site, just to tempt you. Hopefully she won’t mind…

I found some of the thicker stuff also on Etsy at
http://TandZSupplies.etsy.com
but here’s the thing… I’ve never ordered from this company and so as a result can’t vouch personally for her.
She’s got good feedback, though.

I happened to have a piece from a million years ago, made from a company called embeads. I looked them up online and can’t find their website, though. I’d also like to pretend that I was all trendy in using orange since its the Pantone Color of 2012. Actually, the Pantone Color is “tangerine” and I just had this cord…

The Disks

I refuse to take responsibility for my boro disk-making obession, so I’ll just go ahead and blame someone else for it (you know who you are, up there in Canada)! You can make your disks out of either soft glass or boro. I just like the colors of the boro. If you want some, I’ve got plenty to spare, just let me know how many and the approximate color. They’re super cheap, too. I used… uh… 8 of them. They only sort-of matched.

Anyhow, here’s a bunch of eye candy I had hanging around on my computer…

If you do want to try and make your own, here are two videos I dug up on youtube. They use soft glass, but you could use boro instead. As a matter of fact, I think its easier in boro. You do want to pop them into a kiln, though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xl5s3FLmdaM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtmR8Ib5z2s

Ready to put this thing all together?

Wrap your longest chain around the silk cording. Wrap it pretty tightly, and try to keep the wraps even.

Wrap scotch tape tightly around the ends. This will help to keep your chain nice and even with the silk cording and will also help keep the silk cording from fraying. Cut the tape directly in half so that when you add your bead cap the tape doesn’t stick out from underneath that cap. Nip off the extra chain with wire cutters.

Wrap a piece of your wire around the chain and taped edge. Do it really really REALLY tightly. Add a bunch of glue right at the top of the tape. This will help keep your silk from fraying also, and acts as extra insurance in case your wire wrap wasn’t tight enough. Run the wire up through the bead/cord cap. I like adding a matching bead up here to make the back look as nice as the front. Wirewrap your clasp onto the piece.

Okay! Time to embellish the front!

Add a large jumpring at the center front. I like to catch the chain here, too, just to make sure that the wrap stays consistent. Attach your focal bead/watch to the jump ring.

I put a piece of thin chain through each of 4 disks and suspended them from jump rings around the cord/chain.

I also added two other short pieces of chain between the jump rings. You know, since I had that extra chain and all. The three chains I used in this piece did NOT match. This was part of the fun of it.

Finally, I stacked glass disks, spacer beads, cogs, Swarovski crystal and some 8/0 seed beads and sewed them onto the silk cording. My cogs were two different metals and none of the beads matched. I was okay with this!
Here’s a close-up on one of those stacks.

Too busy for you? Here’s a simpler version…

Now, lets see your version!
Like these tips, articles and tutorials?
Buy me a cup of coffee!
 

Happy Christmas, to my friends who celebrate!

I’ve been working on a thicker and more advanced version of the very popular ladder stitch bracelet.
You can see my original (beginning level) tutorial here.
https://goodrivergallery.wordpress.com/2011/12/13/free-beading-tutorial-ladder-stitch-bracelet-with-lampwork-closure/

You should read through the original before you try this one since this builds on the basic version.

This tutorial should explain how to do a piece with multiple rows as well as adding a braid option.

Materials:
**Work Surface

**Thumbtack

**C-Lon Macrame Cord
(I get it from caravan beads here: http://www.caravanbeads.net/ProdList.asp?scat=76 )

** For a double wrap bracelet, 3 pieces, 1 1/2 yards long each 1mm leather (available from your local bead store)

** 5 grams size 8/0 seed beads (also available from Caravan Beads)

** 20 grams 3.5 cube beads. The hole needs to be 1mm so it slides over the leather. This would also look GREAT with tiny spacer beads.

** Button or Lampwork glass bead

**Twisted Wire Needles

**Some glue – I suggest watch glue.
————
Alrighty, ready to get started? Cut the three pieces of leather as directed in the materials above.Find the approximate middle point on them. We’ll be starting by making the buttonhole loop, so the important part of this is that we start about 1/2″ off center and that we make sure the loop is big enough for your button or bead.

Use the c-lon to bundle them together. Wrap them together, tie off and then go ahead and start weaving (over one, under one, over one and around the bundle) to flatten your pieces. I’ve got them pinned down to my work surface.

Using the same technique from the previous/basic version here, weave the beads between the leather “weft”. Remember to always go through the beads as you pass them with the needle, otherwise you’ll have unsightly c-lon loops. If you were to use the same size beads, this would allow you to do multirow bracelets. Since I’m trying to make a loop, however, the outer row is bigger beads than the inner row (I’ve used 8/0 seed beads in the inner row and cubes on the outer row).

Since the loop wasn’t curving fast enough, I had to add increases in the outer row.  The following photos are a little overexposed, sorry.

Okay, so increasing one side is actually a royal pain in the a$$ because you have to make sure you do it evenly and it has to match your bracelet closure (button or bead) when you are finished. I had to take mine out twice before it worked out. But my final increase was done every THIRD cube bead. A better way to do this would be just to make sure your outer bead is significantly larger than the inner bead so the curve naturally happens.

As a side note, this does not match the increases in the photos, but every THIRD bead worked for a 3/4 inch button.

To work an increase, add the cube (outside/larger) bead and then instead of going directly to the inner bead double back and add another cube/larger bead. On the next pass, you’ll add both the outer and inner beads as normal.

Once your buttonhole is complete, you’ll want to wrap a shank on it. Put a spot of glue on the shank to keep it all together.

Now… You can either go ahead and use the same technique to spread your 6 strands out and weave between them with the ladder stitch technique (this makes a wide, really wonderful bracelet) shown above… You need to make certain that all your beads have approximately the same width, otherwise the bracelet will undulate, which actually can give you another completely different design idea.

….or you can braid.

I’ve decided to braid because after doing the ladder stitch three times for that buttonhole I was totally done with the whole idea. I have to tell you here that the only previous ladder stitch bracelet I managed to finish was the one I made for the previous tutorial before I got totally bored.

We’re going to use a six-strand braid, which is why I had you cut so much leather. You’ll see below that I also covered the shank with a little bit of peyote stitch since I can’t leave well enough alone and I’d done a messy job wrapping that shank. We’re going to use a six-strand flat braid here.

Flatten out your six strands.

Here’s how this works WITHOUT beads.
1 * From the right, you’ll take the first strand (I’ll call this the working cord), go under the second strand and over the third strand.
2 * From the left you’ll take the first strand, go over the second strand, under the third strand and over the fourth strand (which was the working cord from the other side).

Repeat steps 1 & 2.

Here’s a website you can check to see this in a little more detail (without beads). This is actually the website on which I learned to do this particular flat braid.
http://www.seekyee.com/Slings/howtos/6strand1.htm

Here’s how this works WITH beads.
I’ve used cube beads here, but I’ll bet this would be great with lampwork spacers. Remember, you just have to make them big enough to go over a 1mm leather code. I’m not sure what size mandrel this is.

1* From the right, you’ll take the first strand (I’ll call this the working cord), go under the second strand, add a bead, and over the third strand.
2* From the left you’ll take the first strand, go over the second strand, under the third strand, add a bead, and over the fourth strand (which was the working cord from the other side).

Repeat steps 1 & 2.

The finished beadwork will appear to have a herringbone pattern.

Braid to the end of your bracelet. Try to braid as tightly as possible, and stretch the leather a little bit as you go. You’ll see the tension even out as you continue to work the braid.

At the end, you can either knot the button/bead directly onto the leather or you can add a piece of c-lon and make a shank that attaches to the button/bead. That’s what I did because my Czech button has a tiny metal shank in the back that only went over a single piece of leather.

Here’s a photo of the finished piece again – enjoy!

Okay, now lets see your versions!

Did you know that I have free tutorials on my website?  You can find them here.
http://www.goodrivergalleries.com/tips.htm

Also, when I work up patterns that haven’t been tested, I offer them for free on my newsletter.  Want to sign up?  http://www.goodrivergalleries.com/contact.htm